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Abrams Model
  98 modèle / model éch. / sca. fab. / man modifications / add ons  1/35 e  Tamiya  réf. 35510   US M1A1 Abrams  1 Burn in Hell… M1A1 Abrams “Cojone eh”  4    M  o   d  e   l 12  4    M  o   d  e   l 1234 History At a time when the rst American reports on combat losses are published, Victory in Iraq is far from being achieved. This model of the Famous M1a1 Abrams named “Cojone Eh” proves this. Far more than a single combat tank destroyed , it is a true symbol incarnated in “Cojone eh”, showing US Army bogged down in a country more and more hostile to the army which was supposed to liberate it. April 5 th  2003 in the suburb of Yarmouk, a few days after the fall of Baghdad. It was around 10.30 when re broke out in the engine compartment of the “Cojone Eh” tank. It was apparently oil carried into some jerrycans and pierced by Iraqi bullets that started the re. Gi’s attempted to stop the re but in vain, they had to leave the M1 to its fate. Iraqis tried to tow the tank, but didn’t succeed. American command was determined not to leave the tank in enemy hands and called upon aviation to nish off the “Cojone Eh” with Maverick anti-tank missiles. Assembly The base model is the one from Tamiya which is rather old. Details are quite rare on this model even if there aren’t a lot on this type of tank. Movable suspension arms or possibilities to easily open the side bins would have been welcome etc... As I had the etched brass set for the Dragon kit of the Abrams, I therefore needed to adapt the parts, most of the kits on the market showed differences. But with a few little tricks, I managed to get to the end. Bearing in mind that it would be a destroyed vehicle, some artistic licence may be taken. Eduard photo etched parts ref.: 35510 - plastic tracks AFV CLUB ref.: AF 3512  Materials  replacement and part fabrication:1  The various tools and materials used for the transformation and the replacement of the destroyed parts. An aluminium sheet, a cutter and a sheet of tracing paper. 2  The aluminium sheet is an indispensable allie for this project. It was with this material that I was able to reproduce and duplicate the destroyed parts. Using the tracing paper, I copied the desired elements. I had used aluminium on previous models because it is a really user friendly material. It can be cut effortlessly with a large cutter, and it can be bent easily. 3  Here is an example of what can de done with aluminium, one of the turret side bins. This will be heavily damaged to suit the model. 4  Aluminium and the Eduard etched brass complement each other very well, as can be seen on this photo. The level of detailing is very high. The wheels 1  Most of the running gear was cut and separated from the main hull. Using a sawing disk tted on a motor drill, the suspension arms were cut and replaced by new ones made from Evergreen plastic strips. It looks a bit odd, but it has no importance at this stage. What we want is a tank stuck in the ground, because it was demolished, it will allow you to hide these parts behind combustion residues and soil. 2  A big problem rapidly emerged when starting this destroyed Abrams. The wheels are surrounded by a large rubber shoe, which had to be eliminated. Each wheel was xed to a screw and tted into a large motor drill. Once tight, I switched the drill on and using a large le I removed the excess plastic.  33 32 789   123456 2/ Frame assembly Most of the work will be concentrated on the rear plate here. Eduard’s Pe Set for the Trumpeter kit will provide the fuel drum supports (strangely they are not in the Tamiya detailing kit) and give a real «plus» to the kitThe 2 fuel drums in the kit were really too neat for my taste, so I’ve used one from an old Tamiya reference (35026) while the other one has been scratch built with lead foil in order to dent it as I wish.Because a burnt out vehicle really doesn’t sit on its tracks in the same way as an operational one I have had to drill the holes for the wheel legs in order to be able to move them as I wish later. 3/ The turret 9  Tamiya have done a very good job here, but once again, there is some room for improvement. I’ve replaced all the tie downs, hatch handles, and grab handles with copper wire. Some more details for hatches came from the Eduard’s PE set. The support for the searchlight came from the Eduard’s set for the Esci kit. The anti-aircraft Dhsk gun is a little gem but some details by Eduard (once again) will be added. The control cable from the handgrip to the main trigger will be made from copper wire.The main gun is perfect as it is and really doesn’t need any work, and I don’t see why you would need to replace it with any turned barrel.The last detail you would have to add is the coaxial gun, which is not in the box; I made mine with a reworked MG34 that I kept in my sparebox. 4/ The tracks I did chose to use the new ModelKasten ref on my model, as the one provided in the box will no longer t after I have moved all the road wheels (anyway, I never use the vinyl tracks!). Why didn’t I choose the Friul ones? Good question! I’ve read on the internet that the MK ones were more in scale so that’s the reason for my choice. Finding them was another story and after a kind of «internetothon» took place to nd me the tracks (thanks again guys !) it’s nally Jon Tamkin from mission models who sent me a set.These tracks are really superb and I was surprised to see how easy it was to build it. I’ve used 88 links on the left side and 87 on the right. Once built I immediately painted it with my usual mix of gunmetal and raw umber. Painting Toutes les peintures utilisées sont des références enamels de «Modelmasters». 1  A rst coat of at black followed with Russian armour green will act as primer. 2  Then some Afrika Braun lightened to 50% with light skin tone will be applied in a very thin layer in order to let some green visible in all the recesses 3  Once dried the same mixture will be lightened with appreciatively 30% of at white and again applied in very thin layer. 4  The markings were done by hand with a 15/0 brush as per some pictures I have in the «Raids» magazine those markings are for the number 8647 in Arabic letters. Once this work has dried, a coat of future will be applied to the whole vehicle to protect the paint of the upcoming washes. 5  A rst light wash of burnt umber will be applied to the whole vehicle and immediately followed by a darker one, but this time focusing on all the recesses only. 6  The chipped paint effect was the next step and has been done with gunmetal, some rust streaks were liberally applied with raw umber artists oils.  5958 Neubaufahrzeug      s …     f   o   c   u   s …     f   o   c   u   s …     f   o   c   u   s …     f   o   c   u   s …     f   o   c   u   s …     f   o   c   u   s   s …     f   o   c   u   s …     f   o   c   u   s …     f   o   c   u   s …     f   o   c   u   s …     f   o   c   u   s …     f   o   c   u   s History In 1933 Rheinmetall-Borsig was ordered to build a multi turreted tank. By the end of 1934 two light steel prototypes were ready. While the chassis passed all tests successfully, the turrets did not. Thus Krupp has been requested for redesign and new construction. In 1935 Rheinmetall nished three armoured hulls and Krupp their turrets. These three vehicles were assigned to special purpose detachment 40 (PzAbt zbV 40 ) and were shipped to Norway in April 1940. After their rst employment against British forces one Neubaufahrzeug bogged down near Lillehammer and had to be blown up by its crew. The remaining two vehicles remained in the fortress of Akershus, near Oslo, until the end of 1940 and then returned to Germany. They were again sent to battle during Operation Barbarossa, but were destroyed on 28 June 1941 from hits from KV I tanks. The mild steel prototypes were used as training tanks. The kit... full resin. The parts are moulded in yellow, odourless material. The resin for the turret and hull is of very strong consistence with large, difcult to remove moulding blocks. I damaged the bow quite heavily during clean up and had to rebuild the area with putty. There are only a few air bubbles to claim on the surface of the parts. Some of the round parts ( exhaust pipes, gun mantlet, gun ) suffered from resin streaks on the surface, which were difcult to remove due to the strong material they are made of. The quality of the parts varies from very good to average (road wheels, support rollers and their support). Many hatches can be positioned either open or closed, but no interior has been provided. The MG’s are beautifully detailed, each muzzle has been drilled out already. Thos who intend to provide moveable turrets should consider installing the hooking system well known from plastic kits as nothing similar is foreseen in the kit. The turrets are simply put on and are liable to fall off as soon as the model is tilted (presentation, transport). It seems that the master modeller used photoetched weld seams. They look too regular and thus not realistic. The surface of the vehicle is even, no armour texture has been represented. The kit provides a very nice PE Set from polish company PART. The rear side of these PE parts is covered with a layer that allows one to use household superglue for mounting them. Thus I only used superglue liquid and gel from Loctite for this project. The instructions consist of only three pages . One page, format DINA4, giving short explanations in English/Polish about the vehicle, how to work with resin, which PE parts must not be used and how to paint the vehicle ( Humbrol 32 ! ) On the return side turret construction and adding the tracks is described. For constructing the hull only one DIN A3 page with one explosion template has been provided. There are neither decals nor stencils for adding the markings available. The instructions do not reect on markings at all. One small headlight was missing, but some additionally tools and wheels were provided. A small hatch was unusable due to bad moulding and I had to built one from scratch as replacement. As this kit was built for a customer I had to agree on certain compromises which I would not have done if this would have been one of “my” projects. Construction I had to analyse the instructions quite often and studied drawings and photographs a lot until I was ready to start this adventure. Before I used any glue it was time to clean up all parts and to store them in small boxes. During this process it became evident that the road wheels and return rollers suffer from relatively large moulding blocks which do not provide a separation area, like it can be seen on products from other companies. In this case the clean up results in a partial damage of some wheels. Normally I would have corrected these errors with putty, but as I do not get paid for such extra work I have hidden the damaged wheels by positioning them towards the lower hull. The quality of the support frames for the support rollers also caused some troubles as they are very delicate to handle. I had to built one from scratch because it was not moulded correctly. The construction of the hull is straightforward. The parts are very thick, but as a result, they are not warped. For my taste the panels between the engine hatches were oversized in depth and therefore I lled them up with Tamiya putty, smoothened them with a brush soaked in Italeri’s liquid glue and engraved more realistic panels after the putty was dry.As the turret parts did not t as expected I had to ll and sand a lot. Although or because of my highly sophisticated storage system I managed to loose one of the lateral turret hatches. So I had no choice and built all two of them from scratch, using plasticsheet and hatches from an Italeri Panzer I. So far, so good. For the further steps I had to rely on different references frequently as the instructions were simply not sufcient enough.After completing the turret I started with the running gear. This is the most complex area and requires a lot of concentration. Each bogie consists of ten resin and two etched parts. But rst of all I added the springs to the underside of the armoured belly. They help a lot on positioning the bogies. Then I built the bogies, except for the etched parts and swing arms.The latter have plugs to t in the suspension, but there are no plug ins available. Thus I had to remove the plugs which makes the test tting even more complicated. While the hull was tilted over, I placed each bogie on a spring and gently glued one swing arm to its suspension. With such a temporary x I turned the hull and placed it on a at surface and adjusted the bogies until each running wheel touched the ground. Afterwards I added the second swing arm and then it was time to take care of the bogies dress. I heated them gently with a hair dryer and placed them into position, using a ruler as a guide. Finally, after rechecking that all wheels still touch the ground, I glued the bogies to their springs and added an extra drop of glue to the swing arms. Then I completed the running gear. I added the etched parts shortly before painting as I feared that they would break off during construction. The next tricky thing was already waiting behind the corner: adding the fenders! They are made of PE parts, which have to be assembled according to the scale : 1/35 th  - Armo ref 35025 - Jadar Models, Poland
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