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ArduinoISP BootloaderProgrammer Combination Shiel

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ArduinoISP BootloaderProgrammer Combination Shiel
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  http://www.instructables.com/id/ArduinoISP-BootloaderProgrammer-Combination-Shiel/  Food   Living   Outside   Play   Technology   Workshop ArduinoISP Bootloader/Programmer Combination Shield by Superbender  on December 4, 2012 Table of Contents ArduinoISP Bootloader/Programmer Combination Shield ................................................................................1 Intro: ArduinoISP Bootloader/Programmer Combination Shield ........................................................................2 Step 1: What you need ......................................................................................................2 Step 2: Schematic ..........................................................................................................3 Step 3: Creating The Strip Board Layout .........................................................................................4 Step 4: Populating the Stripboard (no main connectors yet) ...........................................................................4 Step 5: Soldering the Main Connectors ..........................................................................................5 Step 6: Using the Shield to Upload the Bootloader ..................................................................................6 Step 7: Using the Shield to Upload a Sketch ......................................................................................7 Related Instructables ........................................................................................................8 Advertisements ...............................................................................................................8 Comments ................................................................................................................8  http://www.instructables.com/id/ArduinoISP-BootloaderProgrammer-Combination-Shiel/  Intro: ArduinoISP Bootloader/Programmer Combination Shield I started recently to get interested in building Arduino based robots. Since it is a traumatizing process to take any creation apart, I am opting to keep mine alive andkicking. To lower the cost of this strategy it seems obvious to switch from the arduino development board to selfbuilt arduinos - DIYduinos if you like - and keep thesrcinal arduino for what it is meant for... development. See for DIYduino examples the stripduino , the paperduino , the self-etched-arduino , the paperduino perfboard , the palm arduino , and the breadboarduino . There are more out there, I am sure. Just start looking. However, making the cheapest DIYduino requires buying ATMEGAs without bootloader. With those you need to load the bootloader and subsequently you can upload a sketch. This process can be done with a regular Arduino board and isdescribed in a number of tutorials such as the ArduinoToBreadboard tutorial .Here in this instructable, my first by the way, I am introducing you to a strip board arduino shield that allows you to load either (i) a bootloader or (ii) a sketch onto anATMEGA using an Arduino board as the In-System Programmer (ISP) or as the USB to Serial interface, respectively. With this board all you need to do is set a few jumpers and temporarily remove the ATMEGAx28 from your srcinal Arduino to switch from one to the other. Step 1: What you need The first picture shows all the parts that are needed for building the bootloader/programming shield:1) Stripboard, 0.1 hole distance2) Quick connect IC socket3) 10kOhm resistor4 ) 5x2 & 1x3 Pin male/male connector with short/long legs, 0.1 hole distance5) 1x8 & 1x10 Pin male/male connector with long/long legs, 0.1 hole distance (this may differ with the type of srcinal arduino you are using)6) 2 Cables with female/female connector7) 2x 22pF Ceramic capacitor8) 1x 16MHz oscillating quartz9) 4x Jumper from for example an old motherboard10) Jumper wires of various lengths11) 1x ATMEGA328 or 168 to be programmedThe second picture shows the hardware that I used to put it all together.1) Solder iron & solder2) Carpet knife3) Hand saw with skinny blade4) File - not too coarse5) Wire cutters6) Fine tipped pliers7) Sharpie Markers of different colors and pencil8) Third Hand (made by following instructable by rstraugh ...thanks)9) Track Cutter (made by following instructable by scraptopower ...much obliged)10) Voltmeter with test leads11) Paper printout of strip board pattern12) Arduino with USB to serial chip (e.g. Arduino Uno ) for uploading the bootloader or DIYduino and for subbing in as a USBtoSerial programmer for uploading a sketch  http://www.instructables.com/id/ArduinoISP-BootloaderProgrammer-Combination-Shiel/  Image Notes 1. ATMEGA328 to program2. jumper wires, based on 0.1 hole distance3. strip board, 0.1 hole distance4. male/male long/short connector5. male/male long/long connector6. female/female wire7. 10k resistor8. 22 pF ceramic Capacitors9. jumper switches taken from old mother board10. 16MHz Quartz11. fast connect IC socket Image Notes 1. solder iron and solder2. carpet knife3. small hand saw4. third hand5. voltmeter with test lines6. markers & pencil7. file8. clippers9. 4mm drill with handle10. Arduino11. paper with strip board design printed on it12. fine tipped pliers Step 2: Schematic To create the strip board layout I first determined the schematic I wanted to create. You can essentially do a strip board design with any schematic no matter if youinvented it, downloaded it, or re-engineered it. In my case I took the connection layout given in the ArduinoToBreadboard tutorial for both uploading the bootloader as wellas uploading a sketch and combined them into one schematic adding a few switches. The result is shown in the figure. Note that the switches were realized using typicalmotherboard jumpers.Bootloader configuration (as shown in figure):S1 is closed (i.e. Pins 11, 12, and 13 are connected to the Atmega)S2 is switched to Pin10S3 is open (i.e. Rx and Tx are not connected to the ATMEGA).Sketch upload configuration:S1 is open(i.e. Pins 11, 12, and 13 are not connected)S2 is switched to ResetS3 is connecting Rx and Tx to the ATMEGA328The schematic further shows the connections of +5V and ground (GND), the 16 MHz oscillating quartz (Q) and its 22pF ceramic capacitors (C1), the 10kOhm pull-upresistor (R), and of course the ATMEGA328.  http://www.instructables.com/id/ArduinoISP-BootloaderProgrammer-Combination-Shiel/  Step 3: Creating The Strip Board Layout I took a paper copy of my empty strip board, which I am showing here only as a convenient download opportunity, and started to transfer the schematic onto the paper. Iprefer old school paper, but there are programs such as VeeCAD that you can use to create your strip board layout as well.In the layout figure the ovals represent connectors or jumper switches , the lines represent jumper wires, the dotted line represents the IC socket, and the red X and linesrepresent track interruptions. I also drew the electronic components into the figure, the orange thing is the oscillating quartz.To create this layout, I started with the connectors that connect the strip board to the Arduino, i.e. the long oval shapes on the lower left and right. These connectorsdetermined the maximum width I wanted to use.I made a point in verifying if the holes of the strip board would line up with the connectors of my Arduino Uno R3. And guess what? They didn't. At least not all of them.The connection section that contains Arduino pins 0 - 7, i.e. the Rx and Tx pins, was offset downwards with respect to the shown drawing orientation by 0.05 . This madeit impossible to directly connect the strip board (0.1 hole pattern) to all Arduino connectors using a shield type approach. As an easy and actually convenient workaroundI decided to connect to Rx and Tx using cables as you'll see further below.After fixing the connector locations, I placed the quick connect IC socket, then the wire jumpers and the other parts first on paper, then, to test things out, in reality. I triedto make good use of the traces that were already on the strip board. That's the whole point of using a strip board in the first place.Last I decided where to put the trace interruptions. In the layout figure an interruption is represented by the red X or the red/black line that divides switch S1. These aredrawn from the top, but are implemented from the bottom. Watch out to put them in the correct locations.Note that there is one wire jumper placed below the IC socket. This wire jumper was shortened to not penetrate the board. It is only present at the track side of the board.Also note that the figure of layout is correct, but the photographs may have an error or two, that I tried to highlight with pop-up notes. I had for example an extra trackinterruption in my actual board. Easy to fix, but avoidable if you check everything carefully. Image Notes 1. This is the oscillator quartz, the leads are located in two adjacent holes. Step 4: Populating the Stripboard (no main connectors yet) I double checked everything, although triple checking seems the way to go since I still had a few mistakes that squeezed by. However, I marked the locations of all parts(red dots), the track interruptions (red crosses), and the outline of the board on the top of the strip board. In the figure the black marks are either old markings or errorsthat I blacked out so that I could ignore them for what they were. Not too pretty but the marking did serve it's purpose. To recreate this layout, use the paper versionfrom step 3 and not the figures shown here, to avoid duplication of the errors that I had to fix.I took my handsaw and cut out the outline of the shield strip board. With the file I deburred the edges and subsequently inspected all edges to ensure that no traces wereshorted.Next I took my fantastic DIY track cutter and put all the track interruptions into the board. To not get confused, every now and then I stuck a wire through a marked holefrom the top to easily keep track of the correct locations.To create switch S1 with old fashioned jumpers, I determined the location of the switch contacts and with the carpet knife carefully cut away the 3 traces between each ofthe two connector holes. The 2 part connector was subsequently soldered on the board so that the jumper could bridge the interruption. I confirmed that the track wasfully interrupted by testing it with the voltmeter.When all interruptions were completed, I moved on to put the jumper wires and the resistor on the board and soldered them to the tracks. I chose to populate the boardusing the parts with the lowest height first. This allowed me to lay the board on its back for soldering. I gradually moved on to higher and higher components using thesame strategy until I was done.
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