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BattleTech - Magazine - Solaris Sentinel 15

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BattleTech - Magazine - Solaris Sentinel 15
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   December 2001 Edition 15 ell, after some trouble getting some articles from people that promised me articles and just not sitting down and doing it, I decided to have a primarily painting edition, updating my Battle Armor painting guide and a Guide for the Beginner: Supplies. Also, some MW3rd Battle Armor construction rules which are fan based are here. While not official, they are good fun none the less. So, a light edition for the last of the year, I hope to get something large put together! Stay tuned as I try to reload and regroup! Till next time! Ross Koga Solaris Sentinel Editor and Publisher Painting Battle Armor: The Easy Way I t’s been awhile since I last ran something on painting and so I thought that I should get this out with the recent Elemental craze that has embraced everyone trying to build up their Super Novas and Clusters. We’ll start off with the first step, purchasing the Battle Armor. There are many to choose from, anywhere from Inner Sphere standard Battle Armor to the newest Clan Elemental suits from the Field Manual series. Chose the armor that suits your unit and fiction and get to work! I’ll be using Clan Coyote Salamander Battle Armor that is being placed in my 34 th  Strike Cluster of Delta Galaxy. Step one : separate the armor from its tree. All Battle Armor comes in trees of three troopers each, usually featuring three variants of the armor. These are usually a machine gun trooper, a small laser trooper, and a flamer trooper. Take a pair of 6 inch wire cutters and snip the BA fro their tree. W  Step two : basing your mini. Two options here really. Either put your squad or star all on a base or place each squad or star member on a penny or something to that effect. Step three : primer the mini. Take a flat black and a brush and primer the mini. Make sure that you get the entire mini blackened. Make sure that you don’t leave any crevices with out paint as these will show up later in your work. Let the pieces dry for about ten minutes or less if you are using acrylic paint. If you are using oil’s, it might take a little longer. Step four : dry brush the mini the base color you want. For the example, I chose to use a Cobalt Blue and  black arms. Dip the tip of your brush into the paint, then wipe of almost all of the paint onto a paper towel. Holding the figure in your hand, run the brush over the mini forcefully, leaving paint on the upraised area’s. Remember to leave the depressed areas black as you  brush, but this is accomplished by not having much  paint on the brush.  Step five : weathering your Battle Armor. Using the same process that you used in step three, get even MORE paint off the brush and repeat with a dark ghost grey. This will give the mini the “worn” look. But be careful NOT to change the color of the mini from the base color. Steps four and five must be practiced a little to get them down correctly. Don’t give up hope if the first few jobs don’t turn out the way you want. Pin sol fixes all I like to say. If you mess up, just drop the mini in a Pin Sol bath and the paint should be eaten off, although you might need a tooth brush to get the remaining paint off. Step six : identification color and detail. You’ll need some very small  brushes for this part. I like adding a single color in for each star or squad to identify them quickly on the battle field. Paint a section of the BA your identification color, like in the example  picture. Or you can try your hand at small numbers. Or caution strips. The sky is the limit! Step seven : flocking. You’ll need some model railroad “grass” or turf as it’s called. I use Elmer’s glue to put in the base and then sprinkle in small railroad gravel and then drop on healthy amounts of turn. Let this set for awhile, 15 minutes or more, and then  pick the piece up and shake off the loose turf. If there are area’s that didn’t take to the glue and turf, redo this until you get it to your liking.  Step eight : sealing your battle armor. Spray on a flat sealer to insure your mini’s paint  job isn’t damaged by contact to your fingers. Just follow the directions on the can to insure you get the proper results. As you see, getting good battle armor paint jobs isn’t that hard. It just takes a little  patience and practice on your part but if you keep with it, you should begin to get great results that you can brag about to your friends!! Good luck! Ross Koga Editor and Chief Tips for the Beginner: Supply Run!!! I was asked a few weeks ago why I didn’t have an article detailing supplies for the  beginner, or at least a list of supplies that I use! So I’ll do that here, hope it helps some! 1) Miniatures - A must for this, the rest of the supplies won’t matter unless you have some minis to paint! Chose your ‘Mech according to faction, according to looks, or just grab something to paint! Once you have this, then we need the other stuff! 2) Paints- The only colors I will suggest to always have on hand are Black (for priming) and Dark Ghost Grey (for weathering, made by Testors for their Model Masters Acrylic line) The other colors will really depend on your scheme, but I can say I use Medium Green, Cobalt Blue, and Flat White for most of my work. Believe it or not, but the Cobalt Blue works well in the 10 th  Lyran scheme, Davion Heavy Guard scheme, and my Clan Coyote scheme! 3) Brushes – I use an 8/0 and 10/0 brush for my small detailing and a ¼ flat soft brush for my dry brushing. You’ll need to find these in a hobby store with the painting supplies. 4) Superglue- Make sure it will bond metal to metal… you will need this to put your mini together! 5) Hobby knife- Helps to cut and trim the flash from you mini 6) 6 inch wire cutters- Separate your Battle Armor with 7) Toothpicks- Comes in handy for dealing with paint, decals or whatever!
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