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  Moscow October - November 2014 N°35 inyourpocket.com Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife   Sightseeing Shopping Hotels A Cultural Feast Going out but staying indoors Get Out of Town  Autumn jewels outside the MKAD More than10 years in Russia!  October - November 2014 3   www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket Contents ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES Where to stay  45 Interview with concierge 46 Shopping  50 Russian souvenirs 51 Bookshops 52 Business directory  53 Expat & Lifestyle  54  The Expat Experience 56 Maps & Index Metro map 59 City map 60 Street index 64 St. Petersburg  65 Foreword  4 In the News  5 Arrival & Getting Around  6 Public transport City Basics  8 Language  9 Culture & Events  10 Concerts and exhibitions 10 Sport news 17 Gogol House 18 Features  Moscow Theatre life  19 Chelyabinsk   44 Where to eat  22 Russian cuisine 23 Interview with the chef 26 Outside the city 31 Nightlife  32 Dance and drink the night away What to see  38  The Kremlin 38 River cruises 39 Churches and museums 40 Artistic places 42 Parks and gardens 43 www.facebook.com/MoscowYourPocket  Russian Matryoshkas read the listing on page 50  4  Moscow  In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2014 5   www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket Foreword RAY OF LIGHT  The annual ‘Krug Sveta’ festival, a dazzling son-et-lumiere show that transforms Moscow’s historic buildings into stunning stages for animated art, is back for its fourth year in October – and organizers promise this edition will be the biggest and best yet. The big switch-on is set for Octo-ber 10 and for five nights the city’s most famous buildings will become the backdrop for colorful video installations. Prime sites include the Bolshoi Theater, Manezh Square – which this year boasts a ‘media cube’ – and a chain of displays linking VDNKh and Ostankino. The park at Tsarit-syno is also a host this time. The theme of this year’s event is ‘journeys’, and travelers on the city’s streets can enjoy the spectacle free of charge as soon as the sun goes down between October 10 and 14. www.lightfest.ru HAPPY UNITY DAY November 04 is Russia’s Day of Popular Unity. This na-tional holiday is a new old holiday having been cel-ebrated for the first time in 1649 and commemorates the victorious uprising in 1612 by Minin and Pozharsky which ejected the Polish forces from Moscow. Celebrated every year from 1612 up until 1917, the holiday was resurrected in 2005. It is viewed by most observers as a replacement holiday for the now-abolished holiday of November 7 which commemorated the Revolution. Creating the confusion of how to you congratulate someone on this holiday…Happy Unity Day! WINTER IS COMING  The times they are a-changing in Russia. After three years when the clocks were set to summer time all year round, the hour is set to go back on October 26. And, according to new legislation approached earlier this year, this switch will be permanent – meaning no further alterations in subse-quent years. It means that time differences between Russia and the rest of the world will not change in the fall – Russia will remain two hours ahead of Central European Time, three hours ahead of the UK and Ireland, and eight hours ahead of Eastern Time in the US and Canada. Next summer, those time differences will be reduced by one hour as a result of daylight saving time changes elsewhere in the world. Moscow In Your Pocket founded and published by OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket.Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A. tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65, fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64, General Director Tanya Skvortsova, tanya@inyourpocket.com russia@inyourpocket.com, russia.inyourpocket.com General Manager Chris Gilbert, chris.gilbert@inyourpocket.com Managing Editor Ksenia Elzes, ksenia@inyourpocket.com Researcher  Wabke Waaijer, research.mos@inyourpocket.com Design  Malvina Markina, design.russia@inyourpocket.com Sales Manager Natalia Murgo, natalya@inyourpocket.com Contributors  Andy Potts, Maria Stambler Customer Service Manager   Tanya Kharitonova, sales.russia@inyourpocket.com Copyright notice  Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2014. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket. Editor’s note  The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and sug-gestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.© OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket© Maps: J.J. van der Molen, www.jobvandermolen.nlPublished 6 times per year with supplements, N o  35, 01.10.2014, 60 000 copies.For children aged 16 years and over. LEGENDARY HOTEL TO OPEN  The world-famous Moskva hotel, as famously seen on the Stolichnaya vodka label, is set to reopen its doors as the ‘Four Seasons Hotel Moscow’. The fully renovated building, transformed from a Soviet classic of the 1930s into a con-temporary space that blends historical integrity with mod-ern comfort and convenience, is taking bookings from Oc-tober 30. The hotel, ideally placed overlooking Red Square, has 180 room and suites with picture-postcard views of downtown Moscow – taking in the towers of the Kremlin, the domes of St. Basil’s Cathedral and the Bolshoi Theater.  The new opening also boasts two world-class restaurants under the guidance of chef David Hemmerle. Quadrum of-fers an Italian mene, while Bystro has a Russian menu with a Scandinavian accent. Like the recently-opened Four Sea-sons Hotel in St. Petersburg, the renewed Moscow residence is out to bring contemporary sophistication in contact with Russia’s rich and distinctive history, and add another name to the city’s famous assortment of top-notch places to stay. www.fourseasons.com/moscow   FREE ENTRY TO MUSEUMS Moscow has a bewildering array of museums, from grand aristocratic estates to cozy apartments of famous people. Getting to visit them all can be a time-consuming – and ex-pensive – business. But help is at hand; on the third Sunday of every month the city authorities throw open the doors free of charge. About 50 venues operated by Moscow’s Depart-ment of Culture are included in the big event, which runs on October 19 and November 16. Highlights include the Multi-media Museum, which attracts some of the city’s best photo exhibitions, the hugely impressive Cosmonautics Museum at VDNKh and the historic buildings of some of Moscow’s best-loved parks at Tsaritsyno, Izamailovo and Kolomenskoye. Pri-vately-owned museums and galleries, and state-run venues like the Tretyakov or the Historical Museum on Red Square do not take part in this regular open doors program.In his painting “Golden Autumn 1985”, Isaac Levitan cap-tured the essence of the spectacular life and color of Rus-sia’s nature before the coming of winter. Levitan aside, autumn gave and continues giving many great Russian artists and poets the impulse to create their most emo-tional and memorable art. After all, this is the season that was most beloved by Russia’s greatest poet Alexander Pushkin. This is why it’s such a common misconception that this is the season for staying inside in the warmth and comfort. Sure, any visitor to Moscow simply cannot miss out on a visit to the city’s great theaters and museums such as the Bolshoi and the Tretyakov Gallery. But just imagine the beauty and the astounding kaleidoscope of colors you can behold by getting dressed warm, getting outdoors to one of Moscow’s many beautiful parks (see page 43) with a hot beverage in hand. The hip and trendy Gorky Park or the historical Arkhangelskoe Estate are just a few of our favorites.Staying in Russia a bit longer and want a real Russian expe-rience? Excellent! A trip to Chelyabinsk (see page 44), our chosen city for this issue, is highly recommended. Even that meteorite knew where to catch a glimpse of some of Rus-sia’s most beautiful nature!Autumn is also the time when cultural life starts waking up and getting back into full swing after a hot and hazy sum-mer. No matter what you’re into - concerts, art exhibitions, opera or ballet, drama, comedy performances or some good old healthy sport - Moscow’s got it all in autumn. You can find out all about the coolest events and more on pages 10-21. All this action is bound to make you work up an appetite so, as always, we’ve chosen the best places in town where you can grab a bit and quench your thirst.However you choose to enjoy the vibrant colors of the falling autumn leaves or the sparkle of the first frost in the countryside you do in Moscow this autumn, we want to know how all this beauty inspires you at www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket. Have fun! Ksenia Elzes, Russia In Your Pocket. COVER STORY Flotilla Radisson Moscow. Designed for year-round navigation, these stately vessels ply their way between the Radisson Royal Ukraina Hotel and the Novospassky Bridge on a cruise that takes you past landmarks includ-ing the Kremlin and Gorky Park. Read more on page 39. Мoсква В Твоем КарманеУчредитель и издательООО «Красная Шапка» Адрес редакции и издателя: Россия, 196084 Санкт-ПетербургУл. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А.тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65факс: + 7(812) 448 88 64Главный редактор Бонни ван дер ВелдеЦена свободная.Для детей старше 16 лет. Отпечатано ООО “Келла Принт”,191024, Санкт-Петербург, ул.  Тележная, д. 17.Заказ N o 26829 Свидетельство о регистрации средства массовой информации Пи No. 2-6849 от 17.10.03 выдано Северо-Западным региональным управлением комитета РФ по печати.  Тираж 60 000 экз. N o 35. 01.10.2014   In the News CZECHREPUBLICSOUTHAFRICADUTCHCARIBBEANPOLANDROMANIAHUNGARYSERBIABOSNIAALBANIAGREECEFYRMACEDONIABULGARIAMONTENEGROITALYCROATIASLOVENIAAUSTRIASWITZERLANDUKRAINEGEORGIABELARUSLITHUANIALATVIAESTONIARUSSIAGERMANYBELGIUMNETHERLANDSNORTHERNIRELANDIRELAND  ABOUT IYP We have come a long way in the 22 years since we published the first In Your Pocket   guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - so much so that we are today the largest publisher of locally-produced city guides in the world. The publication earlier this year of guides to Johannesburg  and to the islands of the Dutch Caribbean  - our first guides in the Southern Hemisphere - has taken the number of guides published each year by In Your Pocket to well over five million, spread across more than 100 cities on three continents. And there is more to come: make sure you keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket   by liking us on Facebook   (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or following us on Twitter   (twitter.com/inyourpocket).  6  Moscow  In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2014 7   www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket  Arriving & Getting Around Arriving & Getting Around TAXIS  Taxis in Moscow can be relatively cheap compared to other Western capitals. If you phone a legitimate taxi company, you’ll be quoted an exact price for the journey. Angel Taxi , tel. (+7) 495 956 08 00, www.angel-taxi.comEnglish-speaking operators and drivers in Moscow’s pre-mier 24/7 taxi dispatching per-km service with over 1300 drivers in Moscow. New Moscow Taxi , tel. (+7) 495 780 67 80, www.newmos-cowtaxi.ru New Yellow Taxi , tel. (+7) 495 940 88 88, www.nyt.ru TaxiEscort , tel. (+7) 495 622 20 20, www.taxiescort.ru Taxi Shanson , tel. (+7) 495 225 31 31, www.tshanson.ru XXL taxi , tel. (+7) 495 995 82 94, www.xxltaxi.ruIt’s also accepted practice to hail down random cars and negotiate even cheaper prices for rides across the city. To indicate you’re looking for a lift, stick out your arm - palm down. To foreigners, the practice may seem unsafe and it is advisable to take caution by traveling with a compan-ion and generally trusting your instinct. Mostly, drivers are notorious for overcharging foreigners. A journey within the city centre should cost between 250-500Rbl. Always agree to a price in advance (‘Skolko?’) and if the driver refuses, slam the door and move on to the next Lada.Moscow is famous for its red walls, its snowy winters and its excellent public transport system. Although it is home to over 12 million people, Moscow’s public transportation has been hailed as being amongst the best and most ef-ficient in the world. Whether it is bus, tram, underground, trolley bus, marshrutka (fixed route minibuses) or train, the prices are cheap, the journey is brief and despite the severe weather that hits Moscow, virtually always on time and in service. And if public transport is not for you, simply stick out your arm and you will have a choice of 3 or 4 taxis with-in seconds. You will never find yourself without a method of getting from A to B in Moscow!  ARRIVING BY PLANE Moscow’s three main airports are Sheremetyevo  located in the north, Domodedovo  in the south east and Vnu-kovo  in the south west. The Aeroexpress train is by the far the fastest and most reliable way to get in to the city centre, dropping passengers off at the metro circle line in just 35 - 45 minutes.Night time arrivals (the Aeroexpress is closed between 00:30 and 05:00) will be at the mercy of taxi drivers so it is advisable to pre-book a taxi or transfer, to save your-self being ripped off by the touts. Remember that when taking a taxi from the airport to the centre that 1,800 - 2,000Rbl is a standard fare, do not let the taxi touts intimi-date you with talk of 4,000Rbl rides. Around 1,800Rbl is reasonable. If you withdraw cash in the airport, be aware that ATM’s often dispense 1,000Rbl notes. As taxi drivers can not be depended on to have change, if you want to avoid giving them a hefty tip, try to obtain some change in the terminal beforehand.  ARRIVING BY TRAIN Arriving in Russia by rail is a great experience wheth-er you are coming from east or west, Moscow’s many train stations are always bustling with travelers about to embark on long journeys.Those arriving very early in the morning to the stations around Komsomolskaya ploschad (Leningradsky, Kazansky and Yaroslavsky - usu-ally hubs for travel from central Siberia, the Urals and St. Petersburg) would be advised to get a taxi rather than wait for the metro to open as the area can be rather dan-gerous at night. BELORUSSKY STATION  Trains go from here to Berlin, Warsaw, Minsk, Vilnius and Kaliningrad. This station sends trains to Sheremetyevo Air-port via the Aeroexpress train. Q A-1, Tverskaya Zastava pl. 7, M Belorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 251 60 93, www.belorusskiy.railclient.ru. KAZANSKY STATION Gateway to the East, trains run to Kazan, Tashkent, Sa-mara, Ulan-Ude and beyond. Q E-1, Komsomolskaya pl. 2, M Komsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 499 266 31 81, www.kazanskiy.railclient.ru. KIEVSKY STATION As well as to Kiev, trains leave to Odessa, Budapest, Bu-charest and Kishenev. This station sends trains to Vnukovo Airport via the Aeroexpress train. Q А-4, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala 1, M Kievskaya, tel. (+7) 499 240 04 15, www.kievskiy.railclient.ru. KURSKY STATION Local trains depart from the right hand side of the station. Q E-2/3, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 29, M Kurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 266 53 10, www.kursky-vokzal.ru. LENINGRADSKY STATION Hub for trains going north to Helsinki, Tallinn and St. Peters-burg. Q E-1, Komsomolskaya pl, 3, M Komsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 495 262 91 43, www.leningradskiy.railclient.ru. PAVELETSKY STATION  This station sends trains to Domodedovo Airport via the Aeroexpress train. Q D-5, Paveletskaya pl. 1, M Pavelets-kaya, tel. (+7) 495 235 05 22, www.paveleckiy.railclient.ru. RIZHSKY STATION You’ll come here if you are heading to Riga or elsewhere in Latvia. Q D-5, Rizhskaya pl. 1, M Rizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 631 15 88, www.rijskiy.railclient.ru. YAROSLAVSKY STATION  The starting point for Trans-Siberian adventures, trains go to Beijing, Ulan Bator and Siberian destinations such as Ir-kutsk on Lake Baikal and Russia’s most easterly destination Vladivostok. Q E-1, Komsomolskaya pl. 5, M Komsomol-skaya, tel. (+7) 800 775 00 00. PUBLIC TRANSPORT  The quickest method of public transport in Moscow is the metro . With no more than 3 minutes passing between each train, passengers barely get a chance to marvel at the beautiful architecture inside many stations. Buying a ticket is very easy, either a single from the automatic machine, or multiple rides from the ticket office. Tickets cost 40Rbl, although buying in bulk is cheaper (11 for 300Rbl). On the more modern trains, there is an electonicr sign in each car-rige, announcing which station the train is approaching. However in the older carriages, it is simply a voice over, which can be difficult to hear in rush hour, so for those who aren’t familiar with Moscow’s many stations, it is best to count the number of stops you need to go. Trams , buses  and trolleybuses  all use the same tickets as the metro. tramlines run all over the city and are very easy to navigate, though perhaps slightly less punctual than the metro. Buses and trolleybuses are also very straightforward, with the routes and destinations displayed in the windows and an electronic, scrolling banner with the name of the next stop inside, Last but not least: marshrutkas . A marshrutka may take some getting used to for a new comer to Moscow. What can look like slightly dodgy minibuses are actually a legitimate form of transport with fixed routes. Passengers can ask the driver to stop by shouting “ostanovite pazhalsta!”anywhere along the route to let them out. The average cost is 30Rbl - be sure to have some small change on you when taking a marshrutka as a driver will not take kindly to a 1000Rbl note! CAR RENTAL AVIS RUSSIA CAR RENTAL AVIS has offices in Sheremetyevo and Domodedovo airports, as well as at Leningradsky Railway station and on 4-y Dobrynin-sky per. 8, office 122 (near metro station Oktyabrskaya). Q tel. (+7) 495 988 62 16, www.avisrussia.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00. HERTZ Hertz has 11 rental locations in Moscow, including an out-let at Sheremetyevo-1,2, Vnukovo and Domodedovo air-ports operating from 09:00 - 21:00. It’s possible to collect a car outside of these hours, it incurs additional charges. Q tel. (+7) 495 775 83 33, www.hertz.ru. A  AEROEXPRESS TRAINS  The most reliable way of travelling to and from air-ports in Moscow is by Aeroexpress. Aeroexpress trains run between Belorussky Rail Terminal and Sherem-etyevo (SVO)  airport, Kievsky Rail Terminal and Vnu-kovo (VKO)  airport, and Paveletsky Rail Terminal and Domodedovo (DME)  airport. Each rail terminal is con-nected via the metro circle line. It takes 35 – 45 minutes to get to the airports from the centre of Moscow.Aeroexpress tickets can be bought at Aeroexpress ticket counters or at automatic machines in the rail ter-minals, through the websites of partner airlines, travel agencies, and via air ticket agencies, either in Moscow, or indeed almost any other region of Russia. A list of sales outlets can be found on the company’s website, where you can also buy an electronic ticket: www.aeroexpress.ru .Download their free mobile app and you will be able to purchase Aeroexpress tickets using your smartphone with no need to print out the ticket: the turnstiles at the airport are able to read the ticket’s QR-code directly from your smartphone/tablet screen.If you are a Master Card Pay-Pass or VISA PayWave hold-er, you can easily pay for the fare directly at the turnstiles Aeroexpress. The Aeroexpress hotline is (+7) 800 700 33 77 (calls from within Russia are free). Odin bilet - One ticket Dva bileta - Two tickets

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