Ocean Wave Mechanics syllabes
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  OCEN 671 Ocean Wave Mechanics   Fall 2008 Lectures : MWF 9:10-10:00 Room: CE 203 Lecturer : Dr. James M. Kaihatu CE/TTI 802A/808D Telephone: 862-3511 E-mail: Office Hours: 2:00 –4:00 pm MW, or by appointment. Textbook : Water Wave Mechanics for Engineers and Scientists , Dean and Dalrymple, 1984, Prentice Hall (also World Scientific 1989). Notes:  While we will follow the topic order of the text (and it is a classic text to have), we will deviate slightly from it with notes, particularly with respect to the mathematical development and the presentation of additional topics not covered in the book. Notes for each lecture are available as a .pdf file from my web page: Prerequisite: OCEN462 or equivalent. (Optional) Useful References For Additional Study of Course Material : 1.  The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves , C.C. Mei, 1983, Wiley-Interscience. 2.  The Dynamics of the Upper Ocean , O.M. Phillips, 1977, Second Edition, Cambridge University Press. 3. Wind Waves , B. Kinsman, Dover 1984. 3.  Waves in the Ocean , LeBlond and Mysak, 1978, Elsevier. 4.  Water Waves , J.J. Stoker, 1957, Interscience. 5.  Coastal Engineering Manual , U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, available online at;104 (Part 2, Chapter 1 recommended) This is also available with a Google search on “Coastal Engineering Manual” Tentative Course Outline   Week   Mtg.   Topics   Text Assignment  Aug. 25-29 1 Introduction, Review of Relevant Mathematics (Zhang) Chapter 1 2 Review of Hydrodynamics: Control and Material Chapter 2 Volume, Convective Acceleration (Zhang) 3 Euler and Navier-Stokes Equations (Zhang) Sept. 1-5 4 Potential Function (Zhang) 5 Stream Function, Bernoulli Equation (Zhang) 6 Kinematic and Dynamic Boundary Conditions (Zhang) Chapter 3 Sept. 8-12 7 Linearization of the Free Surface Boundary Condition 8 Solution of the Linear Boundary Value Problem: Standing and Progressive Waves 9 Waves with Uniform Current – Boundary Conditions  Ocean Wave Mechanics Fall 2008 OCEN671 Page 2 Tentative Course Outline (continued) Week Mtg. Topics Text Assignment Sept. 15-19 10 Kinematics and Pressure Field of Progressive Wave Chapter 4 11 Kinematics and Pressure Field of Standing Wave 12 Wave Energy and Energy Propagation Sept. 22-26 13 Wave Refraction, Snell's Law 14 Wave Breaking in Shallow Water 15 Wave Diffraction, Mild-Slope Equation Sept. 29-Oct. 3 16 Long Wave Theory: Mass and Momentum Equations Chapter 5 17 The Energy and Energy Flux in a Long Wave; Green’s Law 18 One-Dimensional Tide; Reflection and Transmission Oct.6-10 19 Seiching, Long Waves with Bottom Friction 20 Long Waves in Basins or Bays 21 Long Waves Forced by a Moving Pressure Disturbance: Storm Surge Oct. 13-17 22 Wavemaker Theory: Piston-Type Wavemaker Chapter 6 23 Take Home Exam Distributed;  Flap-Type Wavemaker 24 Take Home Exam Collected; Directional Wavemakers Oct.20-24 25 Waveheight Distributions Chapter 7 26 Wave Statistics 27 Unidirectional Wave Spectrum Oct. 27-Oct. 31 28 Time-Series Simulation 29 Parameterized Spectra 30 Directional Sea Measurements  Nov. 3-7 31 Directional Spectrum 32 Nonlinear Properties of Linear Waves Chapter 10 33 Mass Transport  Nov 10-14 34 Momentum Flux 35 Radiation Stress 36 Set-down, Set-up  Nov. 17-21 37 Nonlinear Waves: Perturbation Approach of Stokes Chapter 11 38 First and Second Order Stokes Waves 39 Stream Function Theory  Nov.24-28 40 Finite Amplitude Waves in Shallow Water 41 Solitary Waves 42 Thanksgiving – No Class Dec. 1-5 43 Cnoidal waves (Dec 3 – Reading day; no class) 44 Take Home Final Distributed Dec. 8 Take Home Final Collected  Depending on the progress of the class or the nature of the material, adjustments to the individual topic areas within each chapter may be enacted. If progress allows, other topics may be touched upon such as: waves over real seabeds, nearshore nonlinear wave evolution, or nearshore circulation.  Ocean Wave Mechanics Fall 2008 OCEN671 Page 3 Homework : Homework will be assigned at the end of each chapter (except Chapter 1), and must be handed in by the due date before the end of the class. Late homework will be penalized 10% each day it is late unless you have an excuse recognized by the University ( and then, only with advance notice (with the exception of emergencies). Collaboration between students is acceptable but  blind copying is prohibited. Exams : One take-home mid-term exam and a take-home final exam will be given. The grading of the exams will be based on both the approach and the final answer. Course Grade : The final grade in the course is based on our best assessment of your understanding of the material and participation during the semester. The mid-term exam carries a weight of 30% , the final exam 40%  and homework 30% . Class participation is also a factor, in that it is a demonstration of knowledge and understanding of the course material. Attendance: Please observe the university’s rules on student attendance at: Advance notice of upcoming absences is expected, except in the case of an emergency for which advance notice is impossible. Notice can be in the form of an email. Academic Integrity Statement: “An Aggie does not lie, cheat, or steal or tolerate those who do.”    Students are expected to understand and abide by the Aggie Honor Code presented on the web at:  No form of scholastic misconduct will be tolerated. Academic misconduct includes cheating, fabrication, falsification, multiple submissions, plagiarism, complicity, etc. These are more fully defined in the above web site. Violations will be handled in accordance with the Aggie Honor System Process described on the web site. ADA : The Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) is a federal anti-discrimination statute that  provides comprehensive civil rights protection for persons with disabilities. Among other things, this legislation requires that all students with disabilities be guaranteed a learning environment that  provides for reasonable accommodation of their disabilities. If you believe you have a disability requiring an accommodation, please contact the Department of Student Life, Services for Students with Disabilities, Cain Hall B118, or call 845-1637.
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