RapidLED Coralife BioCube 29 Aurora Array Retrofit

RapidLED Coralife BioCube 29 Aurora Array Retrofit Contents Overview... 1 Hood Preparation... 2 Fastener Removal... 2 Reflector and LED Strip Removal... 3 Ballast Removal... 4 Transformer Removal... 8
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RapidLED Coralife BioCube 29 Aurora Array Retrofit Contents Overview... 1 Hood Preparation... 2 Fastener Removal... 2 Reflector and LED Strip Removal... 3 Ballast Removal... 4 Transformer Removal... 8 Right Side AC In Removal Prepared Hood Installing the Heatsink Aurora LED Array Specifications Wiring the Aurora Puck Inside Hood Wiring for LED Strings to V+ and V Wiring the Aurora LED Array to Drivers Wiring the Driver to AC Power RapidLED Nano Drivers with Potentiometer (Skip if you have any other driver): Mean Well LDD Drivers (Skip if you have any other driver): Wiring Power Cord to Power Supply Wiring LDD Drivers to Power Supply Connecting LDD Drivers to LED Strings Finishing Up Overview As with any type of lighting retrofit, there are many dangers, difficulties, and pitfalls that may occur. The Rapid LED Coralife BioCube 29 retrofit should only be attempted by people familiar with AC power and wiring, electronics, LEDs, LED Drivers, series circuits, and be comfortable with the fact that this retrofit will require complete disassembly and removal of major components of the original hood. If you are uncomfortable with or inexperienced at any of the prerequisites required for this retrofit, you should not attempt this retrofit. NOTE: These instructions are for installing the Aurora array in your hood. If you are using the kit with individual LEDs, refer to the instructions located here: Coralife Biocube 29 Instructions Hood Preparation Ensure everything is unplugged. In this portion of the retrofit we will remove the hood from the tank, a transformer, the fluorescent bulbs and ballasts, the reflector, the LED strip sockets and some wiring among other things. Fastener Removal To begin, you must remove three fasteners from the rear of the hood to get it off of the tank. We found it easiest to insert a hex wrench into one side of the fastener and gently tap laterally with a hammer until it releases. The fasteners release easily, little power is required. Repeat this for all three and remove the hood from the tank. After the hood is removed, unscrew and remove the plastic cover that protects the fluorescent bulbs and then remove the fluorescent bulbs. Reflector and LED Strip Removal Next, we will unscrew the reflector and LED sockets from the hood. Reflector removal requires unscrewing the two metal fluorescent bulb holders and the LED strip socket in the middle of the hood. The reflector should lift out easily. Cut the green grounding wire from the hood to completely remove it. After removing the reflector, unscrew the four LED strip sockets included with the tank. Eight screws hold them down. After unscrewing the LED strip sockets, unplug all five of them from the circuit board, and remove: Next, we will remove the two fluorescent bulb sockets. Unscrew the four mounting screws as indicated by the arrows in the photo below, unclip, and remove the sockets. Ballast Removal The end goal of this section is to remove the ballasts and the right side AC line in (two power cords) from the hood. We will be left with one original power plug that will power the original fans. Removing the ballasts requires cutting an AC line in. To avoid any problems, double check and confirm all power to the hood is disconnected. This portion of the retrofit has its own section because problems can arise resulting in electrocution and possibly death. Please have a licensed electrician double check all modifications performed on your entire retrofit, and especially the ones in this section. Please note that modifications on this step be and look different depending on manufacturer modifications out of our control. Keep in mind the actual goal of the step as opposed to the photos. To begin, with the hood facing up with the back of it nearest your body, cut the AC line and neutral wires coming from the rightmost ballast. If you cannot locate them, the ballast has a wiring diagram on its label indicating ACL and ACN for the driver. Next, strip and tightly cap the AC wires cut from the ballast with wire nuts. Next, unclip the power connector for the left ballast: After unclipping the left ballast, unscrew and remove both ballasts from the hood. There are two screws per ballast. Transformer Removal To remove the transformer on the right, we first unplug it from the circuit board. Simply unplug the two wires from their sockets in the lower right hand corner of the picture below. Next, we will remove the unnecessary power connections from the hood switches. Be careful to not damage the components or hurt yourself in this step the connections can be very tight and difficult to remove. Please note that we will leave 4 connections as is, which will switch the fans on and off. Next, we remove the transformer on the right. Simply remove the two screws and remove it from the hood. Right Side AC In Removal The last step in preparing our hood is to remove BOTH power cords from the right side of the hood. First, unscrew the strain relief holding down the right side power cords. Next, cut the ends off of the cords and pull them out of the hood. Replace the strain relief unscrewed in the above picture and replace the rubber grommet the AC inlet wires were removed from. Prepared Hood Your prepped hood should look like the one below. You should be able to plug it in and switch the fans off and on. Installing the Heatsink The heatsink attaches to the plastic posts already in the hood via 6 screws. The screws are the large screws included with the kit. Tighten gently until heatsink is snug. Tightening them more than this may strip out the plastic screw bosses in the hood at which point you will have fill the stripped bosses with a hard glue or epoxy and drill them back out so the screw will grip again, or find some other solution. Over tightening may also snap the screw bosses from the hood, in which case, you will have to attempt repair with super glue. For this retrofit, it is easiest to line up one of the rearmost screws and screw it in first. Next, rotate the heatsink around this screw until you can drop the other three rear screws into their mounting holes. Be patient, they will line up. Once they line up, screw them all in. Note the two screws furthest from the rear of the hood are not screwed in yet they go last. After the four bottom screws are snugly affixed, screw in the top two screws. Ensure you do not make them too tight. Over tightening the top two screws may warp your hood (and then the cover won t fit!). Aurora LED Array Specifications The Array has 4 channels: o Blue (1000mA max) - 4 XT-E Royal Blue + 3 XP-E Blue o Color (700mA max) - 2 XP-E Green + 1 XP-E Blue + 2 XP-E Red + 1 XP-E Red-Orange o White (1500mA max) - 4 XP-G Cool White o UV (700mA max) 4 SemiLEDs Violet UV Wiring the Aurora Puck In this step, we will connect the driver jumpers and terminal plugs to the array. First, insert 4 terminal plugs into the 2-pin sockets on the edge labeled Connect to second array or Plug before Applying Power. They will snap in and be difficult to remove if fully inserted. Give them a little tug (monkey tug, not gorilla tug) to ensure they do not fall out. Next, on the opposite end, insert one driver jumper into each of the 2-pin sockets on the edge labeled with the colors Blue, Color, White, and UV. As with the terminal plugs, these should snap in and not fall out. Give them a gentle tug (monkey tug, not gorilla tug) and ensure they do not fall out. Attaching Aurora LED Array to Heatsink To attach the Aurora LED Array to the heatsink, we will use the backside of the array and mix Parts A and B of the thermal adhesive directly on it. Note that the thermal adhesive, once mixed, has a working time of approximately 5 minutes. If the thermal adhesive hardens before you adhere it to the heatsink, you will need to sand the backside of your Aurora LED array with fine grit sandpaper (600 to 1000) to remove the adhesive and start over. We have found using a double cross works well. To begin, apply Part A of the thermal adhesive to the back of the array in a cross pattern as shown: Apply Part B next to Part A on the back of the array in a similar pattern: Using a paddle, mix the 2 parts together to make a thin, even layer. You do not need to spread the thermal adhesive across the entire underside of the array. You do need to cover the parts underneath all LEDs to ensure proper cooling of the LEDs in the array. Once again, after mixing both Parts A and B together working time before hardening is approximately 5 minutes. After you have mixed the adhesive on the underside, flip the array over, place it on the heatsink in its final location, and press down firmly on the mounting holes. Do not press down on the LEDs themselves (the LEDs should not be touched, but will not die if you do touch them.) Allow the adhesive to set for approximately 1 hour before attempting to move the array. If the adhesive is not set properly your array may slip and you will have to redo the thermal adhesive to ensure proper thermal conductivity between the array and the heatsink. The array will look like this on the heatsink: Inside Hood Wiring for LED Strings to V+ and V- Each driver has a V+ and V- output that powers the LED strings. Since we cannot put the drivers in the hood next to the LEDs, we will attach some wire to the driver jumpers and run that through the empty space left from removing some of the power cords. We start by running our wire through the void left by one of the cut power cords. Next, we run it through the rubber grommet separating the interior of the protected hood from the exterior. Tie a loose knot around the strain relief post to prevent damage to internal components if the outer wires get pulled too hard. Next, we wire the LED strings (jumpers) to the appropriate wires on the drivers for your kit. Last, tuck the wires neatly underneath the heatsink. Wiring the Aurora LED Array to Drivers The Aurora LED Array is compatible with many driver choices. Contact RapidLED with any questions not covered by this document. Included below are instructions for using Mean Well LPC, LDD, and RapidLED Nano drivers. We do not recommend using any type of switches/quick connects on the DC (LED) portion of the set-up. ***DO NOT APPLY POWER TO ANY COMPONENTS BEFORE ALL CONNECTIONS AND WIRING ARE COMPLETE OR YOU RISK BURNING OUT THE LEDs IN YOUR ARRAY(S).*** We will use the hole where the 5 wire cable is, so remove this cable from your hood. Run the red and black driver jumpers for each string through this hole to outside of the hood. Mean Well LPC Drivers (Skip if you have any other driver): For LPC drivers, use wire nuts to connect the V+ from a driver to the first red wire of the driver jumper for the first channel. Then connect the V- from the same driver to corresponding black wire on that driver jumper. Repeat for the other 3 drivers and driver jumpers. Wiring the Driver to AC Power The AC Line and Neutral, or ACL and ACN wires, which are brown and blue, connect to the power cord included in our kits. Strip the white and black wires of the power cord (green is ground and unused) and attach them to the blue and brown wires on the driver with the included moisture resistant wire nuts. Order is not important because AC current alternates. Obviously, this step is dangerous because you are working with 120AC current. Make sure nothing is plugged in and have a licensed electrician assist you with this step. RapidLED Nano Drivers with Potentiometer (Skip if you have any other driver): Using a screwdriver, remove the cover screws from the right side of the Nano driver (the side with the potentiometer) and take off the cover exposing the green screw terminals. Next, we will insert the red driver jumper wire and black driver jumper into the V+ and V- screw terminals on the Nano driver. To do this, unscrew the V+ and V- terminals and remove any pre-existing wires in those terminals. Make sure not to unscrew the terminal screws too much or the screws will come out. Insert the red driver jumper wire into the V+ jack and tighten the terminal screw until the wire the terminal when lightly tugged on. Repeat with the black driver jumper wire and the V- terminal screw. If you are using an 0-10V analog controller (ie. Apex) instead of the potentiometer, you will repeat these steps for the D+ and D- terminal to remove the potentiometer and to insert the positive and negative dimming wires from the controller. Consult the controller s documentation to identify these wires. With all of the wires attached securely in the terminals, replace the cover on the Nano driver. Repeat these steps for the remaining Nano drivers. Mean Well LDD Drivers (Skip if you have any other driver): Wiring Power Cord to Power Supply Make sure all 3 wires from the power cord are stripped. Loosen the screw terminals on the right side of the SE power supply, insert the wires into the proper screw terminals and tighten the screws. The green wire must go to ground as pictured below. The white wire should go to N and the black to L. NOTE: If you are using AC power other than VAC, there is a switch on the side of the power supply that must be flipped or you will damage the power supply. Wiring LDD Drivers to Power Supply Next, loosen a screw on the +V and V areas of the power supply. The red Vin + wire goes to a +V screw on the power supply and the black Vin wire goes to a V screw on the power supply. Insert wires and tighten the screws. Repeat with the remaining LDD drivers as pictured below. Connecting LDD Drivers to LED Strings Finally, connect the Vout + and wires from one LDD driver to one driver jumper per the diagram below. Repeat this for all 3 remaining LDD drivers and driver jumpers. The LDD-1000HW drivers will connect to the Blue and White channels ONLY, and the LDD-700HW drivers will be used on the UV and Color channels due to the current limitations of each channel. If you are using a PWM controller, connect your controller to the white Dim wire. Other connections might be necessary, so consult your controller s instructions on this wiring. The LDD drivers are only compatible with a controller that outputs a 0-5V PWM dimming signal such as the Storm controller: Finishing Up After all of your wiring is complete, re-attach the plastic cover, power it up and enjoy!
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